Does
it Work?
Still
dubious, I placed 50 thin trimmings from a Salix purpurea
(Purple Willow) into a bucket of water and left it for 4 weeks.
As the cuttings started to root (every single one of them)
I noticed that the water had taken on a slightly gel-like
consistency; the water also seemed to leave a slippery residue
on my fingers.
The
areas of Willow that were under water also seem to be coated
in a coating of a transparent gel; particularly around the
area of the cut surface at the base.
I
used the solution to water Hawthorn and Oak that I collected
this Winter; out of 20+ yamadori I have currently lost only
2, my best success rate so far. The surviving trees have also
seemed to be stronger and more vigorous than in previous years.
This
of course could be put down to variety of other factors, maybe
my collecting expertise has improved, improved success could
be due to better care or soil mix or maybe the weather this
Winter was more conducive to successful collecting.
However,
my opinion has changed now that I have used Willow Water on
air-layers. Every Summer for the past 6 years I have religiously
taken air-layers from an Acer palmatum that grows in my garden.
Rooting is always 100% and I can always accurately judge when
roots will first appear from the layering (7 weeks for ½"
branches, 5 weeks for 1"+branches). This year I used
Willow Water to soak the sphagnum moss before making the layers
and afterwards to keep them moist. Rooting has moved forward
by a least a week in all cases and rooting has been far stronger
so that the layers have also been removed from the parent
tree earlier.
Rooting
also seems to have been more prolific and vigorous on a Prunus
incisa and a Hawthorn that have also been layered this year.
My
only reserve is that rooting has taken place over a wider
area of the airlayer instead of being confined to the cut
area/wound itself. This will mean a more uneven nebari in
the future without early removal of these higher roots.
The
Willow Water I used for these air-layers was made from the
cuttings of Salix babylonica (Weeping Willow) and Salix
purpurea (Purple Willow) .
The exact species of Salix used would appear to make little
difference. I assume the 'strength' of mixture is entirely
dependent on the number and thickness of Willow relative to
the volume of water that is used.