The
Bantulinao is a tree species that I am unfamiliar
with here in the UK, however, looking through the
images in this article, one can appreciate not only
the suitability of this species for bonsai, but
also the way in which the tree in question has been
styled.
This
article was first published in the August edition
of the Harbest Bonsai Newsletter, an e-mail based
newsletter from the Philippines (for more details
and subscription information, please see the foot
of this page). My thanks go to Leo de Leon and Teddy
Lim for granting me permission to reproduce this
article at Bonsai4me.com
|
Bantulinao
is a tender evergreen with small white flowers which has
red fruits when ripe. It is slow growing and thrives in
temperatures of above 15° Celsius. The tree should be
positioned in full sun; in warm, wet and windy conditions.
The
appealing character of this tree species is that it has
uniquely black bark and roots, nice thick ovate leaves,
and tiny fruits. The internodes are also naturally short.
Newly
sprouted leaves are often red.
Bantulinao
flowers in May, bearing fruit in June to July which turn
red as they mature.
Amazingly
beautiful shari and very aged bark can be found
in very old Bantulinao bonsai, just like the ones we see
in the pictures above. This is a very desirable characteristic
that we try to have in a bonsai. This tree is about a 100
years old.
Cultivation
Notes for Bantulinao Bonsai (Maba buxifolia) in the Philippines:
Watering
- done twice a day except during summer, when three times
a day may be needed. First watering is done early morning
and last is late afternoon. Never water your Bantulinao
in the evening, may cause disease due to too much dampness.
Soil
–Coarse, well draining soil is best. Size of grain
is 5 to 10 mm. This will allow good air circulation and
water and nutrient retention.
Fertilizer
– Organic fertilizer is best.
Pruning
and wiring – can be done anytime of the year.
Repotting
– Best done in the months of January and February.
Propagation
– by seeds
Style
– Suitable for all styles
Styling
a Bantulinao
We are
presented with a Yamadori bonsai that has been allowed to
grow for ten years in a training pot since it was collected.
From experience, it is best to let the Yamadori recover
from the stress for at least two years before any training
and shaping should take place. When the new roots have grown
and have established in the pot, we will see strong growth
of branches and shoots. Teddy decides now is time to make
the initial styling.
For better appreciation
of the tree, its four sides were photographed before the
work started:
Choosing
the front
This
is the chosen front of the tree. This side has the widest
base. The location of the existing branches dictates this
to be the best choice as front as well. You may have noticed
that the leaves were thinned to allow us to study the trunk
and branch structure of the tree.
Two
thirds of the leaves have been cut. This way we are sure
there will be no die back among the branches.
Now
with the leaves cut, we can see the branch structure. We
can see that there are many secondary and tertiary branches.
Those branches that are growing in the wrong direction will
be pruned. All crossing branches will also be removed.
Teddy
explains which branches to cut.
You
can see an example of a branch that is too strong and is
growing in the wrong direction. This is removed.
Removal
of very strong and unnecessary branches is important to
balance the strength of the tree. It also allows air and
sunlight to pass into and reach the inner branches.
All
the remaining branches were wired in a more horizontal and
outward direction
Post-styling
Images
For
now, the work is complete. Branch refinement, rewiring and
repotting will be done in around five months.
Teddy
Lim and Leo de Leon with the styled bonsai.
