There are
many dead trees next to live ones in areas where growing conditions
are extreme. If you set out to look for material in Spring or
Autumn, especially with deciduous trees, it may happen that it
is impossible to tell at first glance if you have a dead tree
or a live specimen before you. The answer to that should be clear
by looking at the buds, but, in case of doubt, scratching off
a little of the bark with a fingernail and verifying that the
tree is green should give an answer.
Trees rooted
in cracks in rocks or flat stones generally have created a very
compact rootball and, in many cases, due to lack of nutrients
and water, have grown into an interesting shape. Very often, these
trees can be collected immediately with a compact rootball. If
you are very lucky and the tree lets itself be extracted easily,
you can even risk collecting it out of the usual season.
Other places
that produce compact rootballs are moist areas. These areas are
not necessarily wet during the entire year and over the whole
surface. In marshy soils, small islands with very thin layers
are created that may become quite dry in Summer. In these areas
of central Europe, as in Scandinavia and Siberia, Scots pines
(P. sylvestris), Swiss mountain pines (P. mugo montana) and Birch
(Betula pubescens) are found. These trees can only grow during
a short period, during those weeks in which the subsoil is permeated
by air and quite dry. For this reason, they often grow with very
little development in height and generally have a bark with a
great deal of character. These trees have compact rootballs and
can be removed from the soil with a sharp shovel without losing
many roots and with high probability of survival.
Just the opposite
occurs with trees that are growing in sand or gravel. They attract
attention because of their beauty, but, in general, they are very
difficult to collect. Often the roots of the small tree penetrate
many metres (yards) below the poor soil searching for nourishment
and it is not possible to remove them without ruining the greater
part of the indispensable fine roots. In these cases, do not even
think of taking the tree away, not even as a test. It is much
more sensible to opt for improving the rootball and compressing
the ramification right there, in situ.
The rootball
can be improved by digging a deep ditch around the tree. To do
that, use a sharp-bladed shovel since areas with clean cuts stimulate
the new growth of fine roots. If the soil is very stony, the ditch
can also be dug with a heavy pickaxe. It is important to keep
the rootball intact and of a sufficient size for the tree to go
on living without problems. Pruning the roots allows for the creation
of many new roots and, particularly, for the growth of new root
tips from the old ones. This process is similar to the pruning
of branches that stimulates the development of buds from aged
wood.
Since the
rootball is considerably reduced, it is advisable to prune the
crown proportionately. To do that properly, it is necessary to
be thoroughly acquainted with the reactions of the tree. Deciduous
trees have a totally different reaction from that of conifers.
A deciduous
tree will usually bud from old wood if the branches are pruned
a great deal. And the same can be said of the roots.
It is much
more difficult with conifers. They cannot bud so easily from old
wood, especially if needles are not left on so that the tree can
continue to feed itself. That means that if an intense pruning
(that for a deciduous tree would be suitable and would even keep
it healthy) were carried out on a conifer, it would die.
For that reason, it is not advisable to prune a conifer too much
if its roots have been worked on a great deal.
Once the tree's strength is restored, it can be pruned little
by little as intended for its development as a bonsai. Trying
to 'balance' the crown and roots of the tree, as is often recommended,
makes no sense. The tree itself knows much better what to do.
Even Japanese collectors have had the same experience. After digging
up a juniper, they leave the branches and needles intact. A year
later, they can prune away long branches.
Logically,
once the ditch is dug, it has to be filled in again. For that,
using good soil stimulates the growth of roots. The method described
here is basically a layering of the strongest roots. In layering,
it is especially important that the new roots can be surrounded
by soil that can retain water, but that can also drain well so
that the necessary oxygen can reach the roots. Soil with these
characteristics is very hard to find in the majority of places
where you have found interesting material, precisely because the
trees are interesting because they are found in poor soil. Anyone
who wants to do it particularly well will have to bring along
soil that has the same characteristics as the right soil for bonsai,
according to the species concerned.
Dan Robinson
has had spectacular successes in collecting junipers and pines
that were considered uncollectable in the semi-deserts of the
Rocky Mountains. Their roots were growing in extremely dry gravel
and were too long. Dan cut off all the large roots on one side
of the plant and tied a perforated plastic bag full of soil mix
similar to that used for layering around the cut-off areas. He
kept the plastic bag generally moist and, after a time, applied
the same procedure to the other side of the tree. After this process,
he could take the tree home without worrying, and with a large
number of new fine roots.
Trees are
often found that, due to the dropping off of their own leaves
or needles, have over time created their own compost directly
underneath the crown. It is a good idea to remove this soft soil
very carefully and fill the ditch with it. This will also obtain
the secondary effect of uncovering the beginning of the nebari.
On the other hand, this is important for recognising the possibilities
for future shaping and, on the other hand, since generally the
structure of the bark of the trunk and that of the part of the
trunk that has been underground a long time are very different,
it will allow for uncovering the trunk early in the process.
To be able
to obtain a natural trunk base, the structure of the bark must
be identical. The bark becomes very rough due to atmospheric influences
and these atmospheric influences have not affected the part that
is underground. However, care must be taken not to leave the fine
roots around the nebari uncovered on the surface. If the upper
layer of soil were removed from them, they would likely die.
After the
ditch is filled, the tree must be pruned. But the branches ought
not to be pruned indiscriminately. At that time, you should have
a fairly clear idea o the future shaping and should remove only
those branches that you are sure you are not going to use for
the design concept you have. In the case of conifers, it is advisable
not to prune too close to the trunk and to leave a sufficiently
long piece of the pruned branch so that, if need be, in the future
it can be shaped as a jin. There will always be time to cut it
off completely later on. For Junipers and Spruce, prune carefully,
since they ought not to lose more than 25% of the crown at one
time.
Logically,
these preparations can only be made at certain times of the year.
For deciduous trees and conifers, the best time is generally at
the beginning of Spring. Just when the buds are starting to open,
that is, during a time limited to a few days, is the safest. The
exact moment varies depending on the type and also, to a large
measure, on the climate and microclimate. All that remains is
for the bonsai enthusiast to familiarise himself with the tree
and 'to think like it'.
In central
Europe, the best time for collecting trees is between the end
of March and the end of April; in the Alps and northern Europe,
the best time may extend into May or even June. For conifers a
good time for preparation is the end of the growing period (after
the formation of the buds for the next year). But as I have already
said, the exact time depends on the type of tree and the climate.
In central Europe, it is between the end of August and the end
of September. In the special case of the ordinary Juniper (J.
communis) and the Norway Spruce (P. abies) it is better to collect
them at the end of Summer since they experience a strong growth
of roots in Autumn.
This way they can survive the cold season of the year much better
and in Spring they will have several weeks of time to continue
growing before the hot season starts. That is just the time when
they can be removed from the soil in the mountains. In the case
of, it may be advisable to collect them in Spring or at the beginning
of the Summer, since at that season, you can see if they are in
good health. Healthy trees can be marked to be collected in Autumn.
Sometimes,
coming back many years later, it is impossible to find a tree
on a craggy terrain. In order to find it, it is advisable to remember
some showy stone or a large tree. Visual memory is a great advantage.
A drawn map is not a luxury. Even GPS receivers can be used.
Once a tree
has been prepared, it should be left in peace for as long as possible
between preparation and collecting; for at least one active growing
period and, even better, two to four of them. But the bonsai enthusiast
must be prepared to find a hole on the day he goes to collect
the tree he prepared. And this also forms part of the ethics of
collecting; the work of others must be respected and a tree that
has obviously been prepared should not be removed from the soil,
even if it is a very good one. Usually bonsai enthusiasts are
honest.
Sometimes
you may find a fabulous tree, but one that is impossible to collect.
In cases like this, the possibility of layering must be considered.
This works, for example, with Junipers including very old ones.
When searching
and collecting, bringing a camera is always worth the trouble.
A photograph of the place will always be incalculably if the tree
has become a lone tree ten years later. Also, a photograph of
the tree can be taken that will augment your collection, if it
is not possible to collect it.
Digging
the Tree Up
Whether because
the tree was prepared well ahead of time, or because the tree
has a naturally good rootball, the time will come when it will
have to be removed from the soil if you want to make it into a
bonsai one day. To do that it is essential that that time be the
right time.
Once that
time has come, the experienced bonsai enthusiast will have prepared
one or more large-sized containers. He will have placed screens
over the holes, mixed a large amount of soil with good drainage
and, in short, will have prepared the whole work area well.
If it not
has been done already, this is the time to prune away everything
you are certain you are not going to need in shaping the new bonsai.
If however, nothing has been definitely decided on, it is better
to stop for a moment to think about what is going to be done.
The likelihood
of the tree's survival will be greater if, shortly before removing
it from the ground, a heavy rain has fallen. Thus the tree will
have absorbed a large quantity of water and will be capable of
withstanding the shock better. Of course, this doesn't necessarily
mean that on the day when you carry out the operation it has to
be raining cats and dogs!
During subsequent
weeks, it would be better if the climate where you are going to
locate the tree were pleasant. High temperatures without rain
are like poison for most trees, including even those that have
not been collected recently. If there is soil, grass weeds, stones
or other material on top of the rootball, you should remove it
very carefully.
With a sharp-bladed
shovel, try to remove the largest rootball possible, although
if the rootball is very stony, it may be better to work very carefully
with a strong pick. The rootball should have a diameter of at
least seven or eight times the thickness of the trunk. That means
that if the trunk has a diameter of 2" (5cm), you will have
to mark a circle with a diameter of at least 14" (35cm).
The depth
depends on the terrain and the type of tree. For safety and in
case of doubt, it is best to dig very deep, by at least three
times the width of the tree. It would not be the first time that,
after removing a tree from the soil, it is found that the main
roots went much deeper than expected. What appeared to be the
roots of the tree may turn out to be the roots of small nearby
shrubs.
It is also
advisable to check the position of the roots before removing the
tree from the soil. To do that, clear the base of the trunk, grasp
the tree firmly by the trunk and move it carefully. With a little
experience it is possible to determine in what direction the main
roots are growing.
In wet areas, they usually grow toward the side that gets the
sun and, in dry areas, toward the shady side. Many times, it will
be necessary to remove a lateral root mass if the main roots have
a strong tendency toward one side.
It may also
happen that roots are found that are so thick that it is not possible
to cut them cleanly with the shovel. For that, sturdy branch cutters
should be on hand in order to make clean cuts on branches or roots
up to about 2 ½" (6cm) in thickness.
The majority
of trees have a main root that penetrates the soil vertically,
almost precisely underneath the trunk. It is essential, although
difficult, to cut it back very carefully. To do that, the shovel
is introduced from a certain distance, on a level, underneath
the tree. If it doesn't work, it is also possible to work underneath
a tree with branch pruners. For very large trees, it may be possibly
necessary to remove them with a block and tackle anchored to another
tree. In any case these tasks must be performed very carefully
in order not to harm the small roots. It is not so important as
you often think it is for the rootball to remain intact. In fact,
it is most likely that, in finally removing the tree from the
ground, it will fall apart. It is much more important to keep
the largest possible amount of fine roots. I have often have good
results by shaking off the rootball very carefully immediately
after removing it from the soil. Clearly, you must always remember
to keep a great deal of fine soil, so that the tree can preserve
its mycorrhiza.
If it is possible,
you should not try to remove the tree from the hole by pulling
upwards on it, but instead by pulling it to one side, placing
a cloth underneath it and then making it roll over the cloth toward
one side. Then it should be possible to reach under the tree from
the opposite side and pull the cloth. Next, knot the cloth so
you can then proceed to remove the tree from the hole. Clearly,
if the rootball is truly compact, you can take it right out of
the hole and then wrap it.
Medium sized
or small trees can be put into plastic bags. For large trees,
possibly plastic garbage bags would be best, since they can be
closed very well and they hold moisture for a long time. If you
want to do things correctly, moss should be brought to fasten
around the roots, although you can substitute wet newspaper for
that.
Sometimes
a good tree is found, but it is not possible to transport it immediately.
By wrapping the rootball with wet moss and leaving it in the shade,
you can leave it this way for several days without any problem.
In any case, it is important that, during the often long and difficult
transportation to the car, the fine roots not be damaged and,
above all, that they not dry out. Some rootballs crumble, damaging
many roots due to shaking during transportation. For this reason,
it is often advisable to remove soil from the rootball with great
care before transporting it.
However, in the case of Junipers and pines, this should be avoided
as much as possible, since these species depend a great deal on
having the roots keep the original soil of the place where they
were found with the proper mycorrhiza. If the road to be traveled
is very long, enough water for the person to be burdened with
it should be carried.
Generally,
trees that are found are much larger and voluminous than you want.
When planting them, it is advisable to prune them to a greater
or lesser extent. If you do this task before transporting it,
you will make the operation easier.
Once out of
the ground, it will be much easier to check whether you have pruned
off everything that you are not going to need now you can see
the tree in much greater detail (including the beginning of the
rootball) and it is much easier to get an idea of possibilities
for shaping.
The experienced bonsai enthusiast will determine the basic shaping
right there and will prune off what is not going to be part of
said shaping.
But, be very careful with conifers. Pines, Spruce and, although
to a lesser extent, the Larch and Juniper suffer greatly if they
are pruned too much. Their metabolism will be so confused that
they will then have great difficulty in developing or they might
even die in spite of having a fine rootball. You can tie an excessively
voluminous crown with the rope that we advised you to bring at
the beginning of this series of articles, although adhesive tape
for wrapping packages may be substituted for it.
The best results
are obtained with trees that do not have to be dug up, that is,
those that have rooted in a crack or over a stone and only have
to be lifted off. Perhaps it will be necessary to cut off some
roots with pruners or even a saw. These quasi-bonsai that have
had to survive most of their time with very little space for their
roots, can be transplanted directly into a pot and, after one
growing season, it is already possible to begin shaping them.
If you have
the luck to know a location where trees can be collected from
rocks, go equipped with the necessary tools. It is very useful
to have a large, solid pick available. It is also very helpful
to carry a crowbar and a heavy hammer. Perhaps you will have to
work with a block and tackle. A special band saw that can be placed
around a root so it can be cut even in difficult positions, is
worth its weight in gold.
