When I looked
at more animal damage on my Japanese Black Pine I became very
frustrated! These were some of my oldest and rarest varieties
of JBP. When I first moved into North Carolina the first trees
into the ground were these Blacks. Over the past few years I would
lose a tree or two a year. The latest damage forced me to move.
The initial plan was to dig one tree with a good root ball (fig
10-,11, 12 ), and place into a large nursery pot until the late
fall. The current thought is that transplanting in the summer
is not a safe time to move trees. Armed with my shovel I dug the
first tree, carefully making sure I had a large root ball. Lifting
the tree from the ground I saw the root ball was dry. This surprised
me since last year and this year there was an abundance of rain.
Since the root ball was dry I tried to be very careful when I
removed it from the ground. The dryness helped the soil fall away
from the roots. The root development was not what I would expect
from a tree in the ground for three years. Very little root growth
was evident and that also would also be a reason for the root
ball not holding together
So here I
am holding a bare rotted tree just removed from the ground in
95-degree weather in July. The thoughts running in my mind were
not positive. . I have repotted all species of trees in the summer
with excellent success. I have even bare rooted a Japanese maple
from my fields in the summer without a problem. However, this
was an evergreen! If you review the literature the reason a tree
(especially) an evergreen does not survive summer moving is loss
of WATER. There are few roots to provide water to the top of the
tree (leaves needles) so the top dries and the tree expires. Logically
I approach the problem with “ How do I keep the tree from
drying to prevent death until the roots are growing.
The first
thing that I do is spray the needles with Wilt Pruf. (fig 15 )
Wilt Pruf is a product that prevents the transpiration of water
from the needles of the tree. The theory being if we can hold
water in the treetop until roots are growing we can help the tree
survive. The next step was to figure out the type of container
and soil, I would plant the tree. The container was easy a 6-inch
azalea pan would be used. (fig 16) The area the roots would grow
into would be ideal and transplanting into a bonsai pot when ready
would be less stressful on the tree. Azalea pans are shallow and
so are bonsai containers. I like to use a very coarse bonsai soil
for medium to large pines. This soil consists of much rock and
stone with a little baked clay and pine bark mulch ( fig 17 ).
The tree would also be tied into the azalea pan with aluminum
wire. ( fig 18,19 ) After the tree was tied into the container
the pot was submerged into a solution of water and super thrive.
Super thrive to help stimulate root growth ( fig 20, 21 ). After
watering I sprayed the foliage with a 20 % solution of fertilizer.
This was done to feed the plant until roots had grown and food
could go up to the plant via the roots.
I had been
up-potting my younger JBP during the last few weeks and noticed
fall root growth beginning. White tips were everywhere on these
young trees. I thought!!!! (Normally this is dangerous!!!!!!)
Spring is a time of prolific root growth. How could I artificially
produce spring for this pine until the roots began to grow? My
studio is air-conditioned, no wind is inside the building, and
only artificial light is inside. The building is shaded when the
lights are out. The tree was put into the building, the air-conditioner
ran at 68 degrees during the day. At night the air- conditioner
was turned off.
This would
be my second spring.
Again this
hopefully would work with this one tree. I thought more about
the lack of root growth and dryness of that pine. I figured that
this condition would exist with all the pines in that area. So,
the shovel came back out. I dug nine more rare and unusual JBP
that had been in the ground over three years. The conditions were
the same for all trees. Little root growth, when removed from
the ground the root ball fell apart. I followed the above technique
for all trees.
Each day
I took the trees from the building and soaked them in a super
thrive solution. I spoke with a friend of mine and he told me
about a product that Musser Forests “Root Dip”. This
product was going to stimulate roots by using Endoand Ectomycorrhizal
fungus inoculants. In other words this would supply microrrhiza
to the plant artificially. It also contained soil conditioning
agents and biostimulants to stimulate root growth. The instructions
called for making a paste applying to the roots then watering
to a drench. Well, I was not about to take these trees out of
the container to apply the “ Root Dip”. Instead I mixed
the “Dip” according to instructions and moved surface
soil until I exposed the roots. I applied the “Root Dip”
to at least two spots on the root system.(fig14) The roots were
recovered with soil. This product arrived to me five days after
the digging and planting.
I watched
the trees very carefully for seven days. The color was excellent
and even the green branches of this years growth did not flag
at all. Flagging is wilting. I took one tree out of the building.
This tree went into an area that receives morning sun and afternoon
shade. The tree was watered daily with a super thrive solution.
The third day I was convinced that all trees needed to come out
of the building. The trees stayed in the morning sun/ afternoon
shade for between two to three weeks. ( fig 22 ) The trees then
went back on the bench in full sun. Only one tree showed signs
of any distress a small number of needles turned about 20 % brown
from lack of moisture.
Next summer
when I dig and bare root again I will add the “Root Dip”
before planting. I also will experiment with no air-conditioned
building with a few trees.
This technique
excites me; we have another tool to use. Consider a tree in distress
that we can move in the summer! The seasons have been expanded
as to when we can work our trees. But most of all after SERIOUSLY
STUDYING JAPANESE BLACK PINE for over 25 years I learned something
new about a subject I had written a book about. You too, can experiment
and learn. If you feel that you want to do something try it! I
suggest not using an expensive tree but one that will not be missed
if the plan does not work.
I also dug
a few trees with great root balls and a much better root system.
( fig 12,13 ) These trees did just as well as the trees with roots
that were not the best.
The more
you do the more YOU learn.
The thought
process continues!!!!!!!!!!! Ideally when you repot in the summer
you will experience a very long period of root growth before winter
begins. This may not concern people who live in climates that
have a moderate winter. If you live in upstate New York or some
parts of Canada, the long period of root growth before winter
assures that the newly dug tree will survive a very cold winter.
Taking this a step further if you repot your tree in the summer
the same holds true: a long period of root growth before a sever
winter stabilizes the tree before winter.
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