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N.B. - This
article is taken from Martin Treasures book 'Bonsai Life Histories'
published by 'David and Charles', which features over 50 life stories
of trees in Martins' collection, a book I would recommend to Beginners
and more advanced enthusiasts alike.
This particular
life story covers 13 years in the development of an English Hawthorn,
from collection to established bonsai. It illustrates the skill, artistic
judgement and patience needed to create a beautiful bonsai.
More of Martins trees can be seen in the
Bonsai4me
galleries.
This
hawthorn was found growing on a derelict building site, where it had
been struggling for many years. The site was exposed and consequently
the tree’s growth had developed more sideways than upward. Being nearly
2m (6½ft) wide and yet just 1m (3¼ft) high, it was most unusual shape
for a hawthorn. The trunk immediately took my eye, since it was quite
large and covered with wonderfully textured bark- it was obviously an
old tree. What a find, and it was a twin trunk as well! Since the tree
looked like it would have a large tap root, I decided to collect it
a year later and dug a trench around it to help with the development
of fibrous roots. The following year I returned in the spring to find
it covered in berries. I was delighted because I am convinced that there
are some hawthorns that simply do not flower, ever! But not this tree,
though- here was the proof.
Picture 1;
Early Spring Year 1
The tree lifted
fairly easily and the roots were reasonable. I pruned the large branches
drastically, so that it would have a good chance of survival.
With it potted
up in a big plastic tub, I began to have second thoughts. After all
the planning and effort to collect the tree, the twin-trunk arrangement
was not pleasing to the eye. Both of the trunks were exactly the same
size and shape, and were parallel. Would this hawthorn ever make a good
bonsai? I was not convinced, but I thought that, if the tree lived,
I would certainly start training and see what happened.
After growing
on for two years, it was time for some basic structuring. There was
a definite main trunk, so l reduced the height of the second trunk,
slightly carving it. I was not happy with the result, but lived with
it for a couple of months while I rethought my plans. I decided that
this tree had no future as a twin trunk and so one of the trunks would
have to go- but which one? The second trunk was chosen to remain since
it had a more interesting shape and I was also pleased with the carving
that I had done. I pondered my decision once more and quickly sawed
the main trunk off before I changed my mind!
Picture 2;
Spring Year 3
I decided
that the tree’s appearance would be greatly improved if the left-hand
trunk was removed. The major scar could be hidden with some additional
carving. I therefore decided to remove the tallest trunk and also prune
off all heavy branches, since new, more suitable shoots were now growing.
One year later
and the tree was repotted into a bonsai pot. A very open soil mix was
used because, despite much growth during the previous year, the roots
had not thrived. Two years on and the roots were still not strong. The
tree appeared healthy and was growing well, but there were very few
fibrous roots. I changed the pot and soil mix, using mainly Akadama
and grit.
Picture 3;
Summer Year 4
I removed
the remaining tap root and selected the required branches, wiring them
in the Summer. It was beginning to look like this tree was at last showing
some potential. When the wire was removed only a matter of weeks later,
the young branches stayed in position.
By now I had
found the perfect pot, one that had been hand-made in Japan. It complemented
both the colour and texture of the trunk, but I would only use it if
the roots were in good shape because being smaller, the pot necessitated
much root pruning. I was delighted to find the tree completely pot-bound
that Spring, with an abundance of healthy, fibrous roots. The new, much
smaller pot gave emphasis to the strong trunk line and good surface
roots. It also made the tree appear much larger and I was happy with
the overall presentation. The branches were heavily wired and positioned
and now just needed extra thickness to balance the weight of the trunk.
The hawthorn was definitely healthy and the autumn colour was most rewarding,
but would it ever flower?
Picture 4;
Spring Year 6
The carving
was improved and treated with lime sulphur, to bleach and preserve the
dead wood. I toned down the bright white colour with a strong solution
of coffee. Now transferred to a shallower pot, the overall appearance
was more convincing and it was hard to remember that this tree had two
trunks!
The following
spring the hawthorn was exhibited for the first time at a national exhibition.
I decided not to repot, hoping to encourage flowers by keeping the tree
pot-bound. Bone meal was also applied in the Autumn and high-potash
fertilisers in the spring, but the only buds that appeared were leaf
buds. The foliage masses were thinned out so that the balance with the
hollowed trunk was maintained.
In the spring
two years later I decided that, although there had been no sign of flowers,
the hawthorn needed to be repotted since it was obviously very pot-bound.
By now I had given up on the idea of flowers. Maybe it was simply not
going to happen -and then it did! Just one flower appeared, but the
next year there were many more.
Picture 5;
Late Spring Year 13
Style; Hollow
Trunk
Height; 46cm
(18in)
The branches
are kept fairly short and the foliage is regularly thinned, since the
bonsai portrays an old damaged and weathered tree which would be unlikely
to support strong, lush growth.
Despite this
image, the Hawthorn looks very delicate in the Spring when the flowers
arrive.
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